Today I’ll focus on choosing fabrics and pattern options. If you create your bag exactly per pattern with exact fabric and interfacing suggestions, plus all the options, you will be making a perfect knitting project bag. The pattern includes knitting needle pockets and yarn guides. There is one large zippered pocket at the front (containing the needle pockets) plus a front flap pocket. Inside the main compartment of the bag is a slip pocket with 2 yarn guides. With the suggested interfacing, the bag will be sturdy, yet slouchy. Of course, if you don’t knit, you can use those pockets for pens. The yarn guides add a style feature as well.
The pattern suggests using a heavier weight fabric as the exterior fabric. Examples include: Essex linen, denim, twill, and canvas. If you choose to use quilting cotton, I suggest adding a layer of woven interfacing, for increased stability. The fun part about this fabric is that you can mix and match several different fabrics and prints. I’ve created this labelled image to help you pick fabrics for your bag. I find sometimes it’s hard to visualize bag parts before I sew one up the first time. Hopefully this helps you narrow down your options.
As for pattern options, you can omit the front flap pocket if you want to make a more simple tote and/or feature a large print on your bag. You can also use that front space for a fun quilt block, like I did with one of mine, using the Hazel Hedgehog block.
For the zippers, you can use either metal or poly coil. The metal zipper really gives the bag a classic feel, and the zipper tabs in the pattern make it a bit less scary to sew in.
Go ahead and download your pattern and order your fabric or sort through your stash. We’ll meet back here in a few days to get started with cutting and fusing all the interfacing and making the handles. Here’s what I’ll be using for my bag:
Art Gallery denim and Paperie quilting cotton, plus some solids for the lining and accents.
To enter to win the Noodlehead patterns, submit a photo of your completed bag by July 3, either by uploading it on my contact page, or using #CaravanToteSAL on Instagram by July 3, 2016.
Sue S says
So excited that you’re doing this sew-along. Thanks! I need to have my tote done by end of May though since I want to bring it to Glamp Stitchalot in Michigan on June 2.
I’m using Essex linen in Marine for the body and Cotton and Steel Bluebird prints (quilting weight) for the accent top, flap pocket etc.
So my question is interfacing… always the interfacing. I love SF101 but am not so sold on Decor Bond 809. Just tried a layer of each on a pouch and wasn’t thrilled with the wrinkles when turning it inside out. I’m also concerned about sewing through too many layers when attaching the leather handles I bought from Anna. I don’t have any rivets so that option is out this time. So any interfacing help/advice you can give will be greatly appreciated. Two layers of SF 101? Also any tips for top stitching over those leather handles?
Thanks so much for your time and expertise.
Reece says
Hi Sue, exciting that you’re taking your bag to Glamp Stitchalot! I love your fabric choices. Decor Bond can be a bit wrinkly, I agree. I find it isn’t as noticeable in the lining though, so I often still use it there. Are you hoping to have it more as a full-bodied bag? If so, you can just sub the 809 on the lining with sf101 and add a layer of fleece or batting. If you’re looking for more of a traditional (slouchy) tote, and really want to avoid the 809 on the lining, you could use 2 layers of sf101 instead. As for bulky layers, you can trim the top of your interfacing so it stays out of the seam allowance. For topstitching, increase your stitch length (about 3.0) and use a large enough needle. I like the Microtex 90. I know you say you don’t have rivets, but you could try a really inexpensive rivet tool and hammer, they’re readily available at most craft stores (in the leather section) if you decide to try that option. I hope that helps, let me know if you have any more questions.